Part two: https://reillysroute.com/annapurna-circuit-pt-2/
DAY FIVE: CHAME TO UPPER PISANG (3/22)
Chame (2670m/8760′) – Bhratang (2850m/9350′) – Dhukur Pokhari (3240m/10,629′) – Upper Pisang (3300m/10,826′)
Distance: 15km/9.5mi
The power was back on when I woke in the morning.
I checked my phone and saw a message from Wouter with the name of the teahouse they’re staying at. Packing and eating quickly, I said goodbye to grandma and raced to the other side of the village in the hope that I’d catch them before they left.
I arrived just as they were brushing their teeth. Emma was there too, and we exchanged stories and compared notes from yesterday as we made our way to Bhratang.
My phone had a low battery so I took minimal pictures, but Wouter shared some of the ones he took (thanks, man!).
At the beginning of the trek, the physical challenge was with my muscles. I didn’t train, banking on my youth to get me through, and my body needed time to get “trail legs” (a term no one else had heard of on the trail–maybe it’s an American thing?). But now, with my body activated and strong, a new challenge was emerging: air.
Altitude sickness symptoms typically emerge within 6-12 hours after arriving at altitudes above 2400m/8000′. We were nearing 9000′ now and would climb an additional 1600’+ by lunch.
We noticed a difference as we walked. The thin air wasn’t enough of a hindrance to cause issues, but we stopped more often on steep climbing sections to catch our breath.
Altitude sickness symptoms typically emerge within 6-12 hours after arriving at altitudes above 2,400m/8,000′, so we checked in with each other often to ensure everyone was feeling okay.
Emma, Wouter, Veerle
There was an apple farm in Bhratang so we stopped for apple juice and dessert. I ordered a donut. “Classic American” behavior.
After, we walked along the river and stared wide-eyed at the snow-covered peaks overhead. The views only got better and better as we walked.
As we neared Dhukur Pokhari, the scenery switched to pine forest and I was transported back to the Rocky Mountains.
The trail ascended and at a clearing up ahead, we caught the end of a proposal! We congratulated the newly engaged couple and stopped soon after in the next village for mid-morning tea and candy.
We needed to decide where we’d sleep that night: Lower Pisang or Upper Pisang. Some people choose to stay at Lower Pisang so they can sleep at a lower altitude, but since none of us were showing signs of altitude sickness we chose to climb the extra 100m to Upper Pisang in the hopes that the views would be worth it. (Spoiler: They are!)
Emma and Veerle walked ahead of Wouter and me. “I’m going to propose to Veerle tomorrow,” he told me as we approached Upper Pisang. OMG!
Common space in the tea house
We arrived around 1:00 pm. I showered, ate lunch, and explored the village and the monastery on the top of the hill.
For context: Upper Pisang is 100′ above the summit of Mount Baker.
Annapurna II
Selfie with Annapurna II
We found Margot and later, after Veerle and Wouter left to take a nap, I told her and Emma about Wouter’s intention to propose. We made a plan: Emma would leave early and I would leave later with Margot.
The evening in the tea house was less depressing than the night before. I met several new groups of people. We chatted around the fire, drinking tea as our towels dried on the clothesline above.
Upper Pisang was my favorite place to sleep on the Annapurna Circuit.
DAY SIX: UPPER PISANG to MANANG (3/23)
Lower Pisang (3300m/10,830′) – Ghyaru (3730m/12,240′) – Ngawal (3660m/12,000′) – Braga (3450m/11,320′) – Manang (3540m/11,620′)
Distance: 20km/12.5mi
There are two ways to Manang from Lower/Upper Pisang. The first is to walk along the road to Manang—this is flatter, easier, and quicker (3-4 hours). Another option is to follow the trekking route through Ghyaru and Ngawal (7-8 hours).
We all decided to take the challenging route. It was one of the tougher days on the circuit but the views were incredible!
Annapurna II, Upper Pisang below
Emma left early, as planned. Woulter and Veerle left next. I waited 20 minutes and brought up the rear. I couldn’t find Margot but I crossed paths with Fergus (from the UK) and we walked together through the green forest.
It was flat-ish for the first 30 minutes, but nothing good lasts forever. We quickly approached the switchbacks. 1500’ between us and the village of Ghyaru above.
As we climbed, I saw the Danish couple and Margot up ahead. Fergus and I caught up to them but Veerle’s hand was still empty so it was time to split up again! Along the way, I met Norm from Canada and his guide “Bro.”
At the top, Norm, Margot, Fergus and I stopped for water and snacks. The view was worth the climb.
Noticeable size difference between Norm’s backpack (orange) and mine (blue). Ultralight Queen.
After Ghyaru, we walked to Ngawal. On the way, we saw Woulter and Veerle sitting on a bench. Veerle held up her hand. YAY! Another proposal! That’s two, who will be the third?
Wouter and Veerle’s engagement spot (bottom left)
People normally start to feel sick around this altitude but I was thankful that I wasn’t having any issues. Even the thinness of the air, which was alarming at first, was becoming normal.
After eating lunch, I decided to keep going to Manang with Margot. I had lots of energy—a big change from two days ago—and I wanted to keep moving.
The others stayed the night in Ngawal. They collectively agreed it was their favorite place on the trek, so keep that in mind if you ever find yourself on the Circuit!
Manang in the distance
Margot and I walked another four hours to Manang. The trail dropped back down into the valley, the scenery reminiscent of the Mexican desert. We arrived just in time for dinner and went to sleep shortly after.
Keep reading: https://reillysroute.com/annapurna-circuit-pt-4/